Rocky Mountain National Park
Even by Colorado standards, Rocky Mountain National Park boasts an embarrassment of riches. Within the park's 265,769 acres, you'll find 150 lakes, 450 miles of streams, over 160 trails, and more than 100 peaks rising above 11,000 feet. Alpine tundra, cascading waterfalls, and ponderosa pine forests create a breathtaking backdrop for year-round adventures. One of America's premier wildlife viewing destinations, the park is home to bighorn sheep, black bears, bobcats, coyotes, eagles, elk, hawks, moose, and mule deer.
Yet for such a wild place, RMNP is quite accessible, just a 67-mile drive northwest from Denver. In 2019, the park hosted more than 4.7 million visitors, making it the country's third-most-visited national park. But don't worry about crowds. With proper planning, you can still find pockets of solitude.
Established in 1915, the park famously straddles the Continental Divide. Its elevations and habitats offer a wide range of opportunities for visitors of all abilities, from easy nature hikes around crystal-clear mountain lakes to challenging scrambles to the 14,259-foot summit of legendary “14er,” Longs Peak. By far, hiking ranks as the most popular activity, but visitors of all ages and fitness levels also come to bike, fly-fish and rock climb — and in winter, they can Nordic ski, snowshoe, and sled. Complimentary ranger-led programs focus on astronomy, conservation, and history.
While nearly one-third of the park is above the tree line or higher than 11,400 feet in elevation, you don't have to hike to the best views. You can access vistas by horseback or by car, with Trail Ridge Road being a bucket-list driving route. Known as a “scenic wonder road of the world,“ it traverses 48 miles between Estes Park on the park's east side and Grand Lake on the west, taking in several not-to-be-missed sights.
COVID-19 UpdatesRMNP, closed earlier this year during shelter at home orders, has reopened with some limitations. Most important: Visitors need a reservation for a specific time to enter the park to reduce the number of visitors. Approximately 60 percent of its maximum parking capacity or 4,800 vehicles (13,500 visitors) will be permitted per day.
Shuttles running from Estes Park to RMNP entrance may not be not running this summer. Shuttles within the park will likely run at 25 percent capacity.
The two-horse stables within the park will remain closed through 2020.
Check the park's website for the latest information.
Location: north-central Colorado
Acreage: 265,769
Miles of trails: More than 355 miles along about 160 trails
Main attraction: Longs Peak, one of Colorado's most popular 14ers
Entry fee: $25 for a vehicle day pass, plus $2 fee per reservation. $20 for an annual Senior Pass (62+).
Best way to see it: On foot or in a car via Trail Ridge Road, the highest continuously paved highway in America
When to go to avoid the crowds: Winter
Handicap accessible: Very
Plan Your Trip to Rocky Mountain National ParkAccess the park through four entrances, three on its east side, near Estes Park, and one on the west, near Grand Lake. Some of Colorado's coolest mountain towns, including Boulder, Fort Collins, and Lyons, are less than a two-hour drive from the east entrances. If you're flying in and renting a car, Denver International Airport is a quick 90-minute drive via toll road E-470 northwest and Highway 36. For more scenery and just 20 minutes of extra driving, take Highway 7 rather than Highway 36.
Nearly 80 percent of visitors access the park from the east side. The 20 percent who come through the west entrance, Fall River, come via Grand Lake or Granby, and most take Trail Ridge Road (U.S. Highway 34). The highest continuously paved road in the U.S. Is known appropriately as the “Highway to the Sky,” as it crosses the Continental Divide at 12,183 feet. The road usually opens Memorial Day weekend; snow forces its closure by early to mid-October. A traffic-free alternative is the one-way-only Old Fall River Road. Open mid-July to mid-October, this dirt road evokes nostalgic national park vibes and features plenty of waterfalls, wildlife, and spectacular Fall River Valley views while delivering you to the top of Trail Ridge.
Open year-round, RMNP has something unique to offer every season. Summer and fall weekends are the busiest. Wildflower season spans June and July when brilliant blooms carpet the meadows and hillsides. Come autumn, the backdrop glows pure gold as the aspen trees turn. September through October is elk mating season, otherwise known as “the rut.” Marvel at the sound of bull elk bugling and the site of antler-locked bulls doing battle to attract cows. Spring can be a gamble, with either muddy or snowy conditions based on the winter season. Crowds disappear when snow covers the park. Explore the trails by snowshoe or on cross-country skis or grab a toboggan and go sledding at Hidden Valley, the only place in the park that allows sledding. The park does not rent equipment, but rental shops, such as Estes Park Mountain Shop, are plentiful in gateway towns. Winter is also a prime time to spot wildlife, including elk, moose, and mule deer. Some of the best viewing spots include Bear Lake Road, the Fall River entrance to the park, and Moraine Park. Animals tend to be more active at dawn and dusk. Note: Social distancing applies to wildlife, too. Park rules mandate you must stay 75 feet from them.
The park's seven visitor centers have restrooms, and the Beaver Meadows and Fall River centers offer free Wi-Fi. Otherwise, expect vaulted, outhouse-style toilet facilities scattered throughout the park at campsites and trailheads and extremely limited Wi-Fi and cellular service. “We urge people to plan ahead,” says Rocky Mountain National Park spokesperson Kyle Patterson. “We don't have trail books to sign in and out so no one will come looking for you. It's important to let someone know where you are going and when you can expect to come back. We highly encourage visitors not to hike alone."
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With more than 160 trails, many would argue that RMNP is best experienced on foot. Plentiful scenic outlooks serve as rest stops and there are trail options for all fitness levels. With the park's base elevation of 7,800, most out-of-towners will need to acclimate. Staying hydrated, even in winter, is crucial to avoid altitude sickness. “Altitude does not discriminate,” says Patterson. “It affects all user groups — young, old, athletic — and can aggravate preexisting health conditions. You can visit and feel fine and return the following year and have a different experience.” Signs of altitude sickness include shortness of breath, fatigue, headaches, and nausea. If you experience these symptoms, let someone know and seek medical attention, she says. Drinking water throughout the day and avoiding alcohol can help minimize the effects of altitude. According to Patterson, the park does not categorize trails as easy or difficult because of the altitude. “We urge people to look at distance and elevation gain,” she says. “Start easy, listen to your body, and gradually increase the distance and elevation gain of your hikes.”
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If you're coming from sea level, driving through the park on the first day might be a smart idea, says Patterson. “The number one reason people visit the park is for the scenic beauty and you don't need to hike to appreciate it,” she says. Some of the best views can be appreciated from your car window via Bear Lake Road, Old Fall River Road, and Trail Ridge Road. If you're looking for a super scenic drive from Denver that takes in the park wilderness plus some of the state's top mountain towns, consider the Rocky Mountain National Park Scenic Loop. Not actually a loop, the four-hour drive covers 164 miles of dreamy vistas, starting with the 90-minute drive from Denver to Estes Park through Boulder. Then follow RMNP’s Trail Ridge Road through Grand Lake and Granby to Winter Park.
Things to Do in Rocky Mountain National ParkWith more than 355 miles of trails, RMNP is a hiking mecca. While the park is best known for its steep terrain, accessible trails have been constructed in particularly scenic areas. Visitors who are adjusting to the altitude, have visual impairments, or who prefer level, smooth paths should explore Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, or the Coyote Valley Trail, on the park's west side; two of its four wheelchair-accessible trails. Nearly 80 percent of the trail network is also open to horseback riding. Sombrero Stables offers guided rides and has a location in Estes Park and two stables within the park at Glacier Creek and Moraine Park, both on the east side. In winter, traverse the trails on cross-country skis or snowshoes, or sled in the designated area. Other possibilities include fly-fishing, rock climbing, stargazing, and wildlife viewing. Here are some not-to-be-missed highlights.
Drive Trail Ridge RoadDevote an entire day to driving one of America's most magnificent scenic byways. Bighorn sheep, marmots, and rock ptarmigans frequent the meadows and crags, so keep a sharp eye out. Be sure to stop along the Continental Divide. Experienced and acclimated hikers can park at Milner Pass and hike 4.5 miles along the Continental Divide to the summit of Mount Ida at 12,880 feet. Of the road's many scenic overlooks, Many Parks Curve is a must stop. The name refers to its vistas of Estes Park, Horseshoe Park, and Moraine Park. You'll also see the snowcapped peaks of Mount Lady Washington, Mount Meeker, and RMNP's crown jewel, Longs Peak. From the Alpine Visitor Center, a quarter-mile-long paved path gains 200-some feet of elevation and delivers lovely alpine views. Rainbow Curve pullout has vault toilets and from the curve, you can spot a handful of 13ers, including Hagues Peak and Mummy Mountain.
Only experienced hikers should attempt a summit of this prominent Front Range landmark. You'll want to build up your endurance at altitude, as the 14.2-mile out-and-back climb takes from 10 to 15 hours and requires some serious scrambling at the top. The reward: views of Black Lake, Glacier Gorge, and Powell Peak. One of Colorado's most attempted 14er summits, Longs is prone to trail congestion. The Keyhole Route is the classic way up, but Longs’ has more than 120 other route options. Colorado Mountain School, one of the few outfitters allowed to guide inside the park, offers one-day trips.
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Adams Falls
Hike to a waterfallRMNP boasts more than 30 waterfalls, many reachable on foot. “We remind people that rocks are slippery, so if you want to get close to the water, move with caution,” Patterson says. “There are plenty of lookouts but our park doesn't have benches. You'll be admiring the views while leaning on a tree or sitting on a rock."
Adams Falls, a 55-foot-tall series of cascades that flow down a jagged cliffside overlooking movie-worthy mountain scenery, is one of the easiest to reach, just a 0.45-mile trek via the East Inlet trailhead near the town of Grand Lake on the park's west side. This also makes it one of the most visited falls, attracting more than 110,000 hikers a year.
A less crowded, equally mellow alternative on the park's east side is Alberta Falls. Accessed by the Glacier Gorge trailhead, this hike winds 0.85-mile through aspen groves and pine forests, depositing visitors at the 30-foot chute that spills down a gorge.
Located in the park's southeast corner, Ouzel Falls requires a bit more effort. Reached by the Wild Basin trailhead, the 5.4-mile round-trip hike passes a handful of other waterfalls before reaching Ouzel, a 40-foot gusher. For roaring waters, visit during the spring snow runoff.
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Fly-fish for troutAn angler's paradise, RMNP has countless options for casting, from wild alpine lakes to easy-to-access streams. Big Thompson River, near Estes Park, has some of the most trafficked waters in the summer, so explore sections of the river farther from the road to find larger, less spooked fish. Located in the park's Glacier Gorge area, Sprague Lake and the Loch are well stocked with brook and greenback cutthroat trout. In the park's southeast corner, Thunder Lake boasts one of RMNP'S most bountiful trout stocks along with dreamy views of Mount Alice, Pilot Mountain, and Tanima Peak. Important note: you need a valid Colorado fishing license to fish in the park, which you can obtain from the Colorado Division of Parks and Wildlife website. Book a guide or stock up on equipment at Kirks Fly Shop or Estes Anglers, both in Estes Park.
Trek around a lakeRMNP is often referred to as the land of lakes given its multitude of sparkling blue-green waters. With negligible elevation gain, the Bear Lake Loop is one of the park's four wheelchair-accessible paths. Located in the heart of the park, this informative, 0.6-mile interpretive nature trail is 9.5 miles from the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center. During the peak summer season, the trailhead's parking lot fills quickly. Arrive early or plan to use the free shuttle from the visitor center to reach the trailhead.
If you want a workout, drive 10 miles south of Estes Park and head to Chasm Lake via the Longs Peak trailhead. The 8.4-mile, round-trip trek is a quad burner but the deep-green pool and views of the east-facing wall of Longs Peak, known as the Diamond, are well worth the effort.
Dream Lake is an easy 2.2.-mile, an out-and-back hike that begins at Bear Lake trailhead, just outside of Estes Park, and passes Nymph Lake en route. Rise early to arrive by sunrise and watch the waters take on a heavenly pink glow.
Gateway Towns to Rocky Mountain National Park
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Estes ParkA destination in its own right, Estes Park feels more like a base camp where you can stay and play. Bordering RMNP'S eastern edge, the town is less than a 10-minute drive from the Beaver Meadow Visitor Center and Fall River Visitor Center entrances and a half-hour from the Wild Basin entrance. It's also surrounded by less crowded, non-park wilderness spaces, including Roosevelt and Hermit Open Space. Both are dog-friendly and allow recreational opportunities that are off-limits in a national park, such as mountain biking, off-roading, and non-permit wilderness camping. The easy, 3.6-mile round-trip Kruger Rock Trail in Hermit Park Open Space rewards hikers with incredible views over Estes Valley and into the national park. For off-roading fun, Estes Park-based Wildside 4x4 Tours offers guided trips that explore the beauty of Roosevelt National Forest.
Camping is a quintessential Estes Park activity, so reserve sites in advance. The town has a handful of well-appointed suites, including a KOA Campground suitable for small RVs and Yogi Bear's Jellystone Park Camp-Resort, which has cabins, RV and campsites, a heated pool, and mini-golf. If you're not up for roughing it, splurge on a stay at the historic 140-room Stanley Hotel. The muse for the Stephen King thriller The Shining, the Colonial Revival landmark was originally built by Freelan Oscar Stanley, an East Coast entrepreneur seeking a healthier life in the Rockies. Stanley is largely credited with developing Estes Park into a proper town with civic organizations, a power plant, and waterworks.
Today, you'll find four breweries, a winery, and a distillery plus charming mom-and-pop shops. Burgers, bourbon, and portobello fries are the hits at Bird and Jim, a restaurant where local climbing legend Tommy Caldwell often hangs out. For a fast-casual, post-hike bite, grab an elk kebab from Himalayan Curry & Kebob. At night, the Rock Inn Mountain Tavern is known for its live music and comfort foods such as bison meatballs.
Many visitors plan their trips around annual events such as Jazz Fest (June), Rooftop Rodeo (July), and Bigfoot Days (April), a celebration of Sasquatch lore.
Grand LakeRMNP's western gateway, Grand Lake is more mountain hamlet than a town. This sleepy community of about 500 year-round residents comes to life in summer months when vacationers flock here to take advantage of Colorado's largest and deepest body of water, Grand Lake. First-come, first-served Elk Creek Campground offers views of RMNP plus amenities including picnic tables, fire pits, showers and bathrooms, and a recreation room with Wi-Fi. For a splurge, book one of the 70 recently renovated cabins at Grand Lake Lodge. Grand Lake Marina rents motorboats and paddle sports equipment, including canoes, kayaks, and stand up paddleboards.
For such a small town, you'll find a surprising number of dining options. The bagel sandwiches and breakfast burritos at Blue Water Bakery will fuel you through the day. Western-themed Sagebrush BBQ & Grill is known for its pork ribs and cornbread. There's no shortage of ice cream shops in Grand Lake, but the homemade scoops from shorefront Miyauchi's Snack Bar are worth seeking out.
More On Our Beautiful National Parks
Opinion: It's Time For Action On Regulating Climbing And Hiking In The Rockies
The status quo in the Rockies is unsustainable. With visitation already approaching last year’s numbers and rescues skyrocketing, change during the pandemic is inevitable.
Options for climbers and scramblers include enhanced public education, a regulation requiring the hiring of guides for select climbs (as is the case with Mount Norquay’s Via Ferrata), issuing fines, pressing criminal charges, and increasing our search and rescue capacity.
I used to think that Canada’s spirit of adventure was at risk of being eviscerated and that regulation would be the thin tip of the wedge representing just the beginning of a process that will gut risk from adventure.
I’m not afraid anymore. Between the increased number of deaths in the mountains, the maxing out of rescue teams, and crowds congregating on trails, it’s time for a serious rethink about how climbing and hiking should be regulated in the Rockies.
We accept reasonable restrictions on our lives and liberty. Seatbelts must be worn in a car, lifejackets must be onboard for each person on a boat, and bicycle helmets are mandatory in Alberta for anyone under the age of 18.
This is the wicked problem confronting managers and planners with Parks Canada and Kananaskis Country. The Harvard Business Review characterizes wicked problems as being tough to describe, having innumerable causes, and possessing no “right” answer. Managers can ignore the problem, double-down and say there is no problem, or roll up their sleeves and solve the problem.
We can find the fulcrum balancing personal risk with community responsibility. Canada’s climbing community and land managers can surely figure it out.
Jon Heshka is an associate professor in the adventure studies department and faculty of law at Thompson Rivers University.
Mount Damavand Day: The Iconic Mountain Is Grappling With Environmental Issues
Mount Damavand, the highest peak in Iran, is located northeastern Tehran, but today, it is facing many environmental problems and challenges. Environmental enthusiasts believe that with the inclusion of Damavand National Day in the official calendar of the country, more attention should be paid to this unique natural phenomenon, while unfortunately no action has been taken so far.
Mount Damavand, a potentially active volcano 5600-m high, is a stratovolcano which is the highest peak in Iran and the highest volcano in Asia, which is a significant mountain in Persian mythology and folklore; it is the symbol of Iranian resistance against despotism and foreign rule in Persian poetry and literature.
It is in the middle of the Alborz range, near the southern coast of the Caspian Sea, in Amol County, Mazandaran province, 66 kilometers (41 miles) northeast of the city of Tehran.
Mount Damavand is the 12th most prominent peak in the world and the second most prominent in Asia after Mount Everest. It is part of the Volcanic Seven Summits mountaineering challenge.
The peak has been plagued by many environmental problems in recent years, including, road construction, high tourist traffic flow, poor mining, overgrazing of livestock in the pastures around the peak slopes, depletion of Dasht-e Shaghayegh (the plain of Iranian poppies) by tourists, land-use changes and construction.
Excessive climbing, dumping of indestructible waste at heights where it is almost impossible for unprofessional people to collect and clean it, lack of sanitary services, legal and illegal hunting, overpopulation of herding dogs that led to the death of wildlife species, as well as the destruction of ancient artifacts in the area, are among the issues, if left unresolved, could pose a serious threat to this natural heritage.
Mountains are home of 15 percent of the world’s population and a quarter of the world’s land animals and plants, in addition to providing fresh water to half of humanity, so their conservation is a key factor for sustainable development.
Because all kinds of precious metals and stones, coal, and other raw materials are hidden in the heart of the mountains, they have always been encroached by humans; also due to agricultural lands which are used for forage production, herbs, livestock breeding, production of meat, dairy and all kinds of food.
Unfortunately, mountains are under threat from climate change and overexploitation, and Damavand is no exception.
Meanwhile, NGOs and environmental organizations have taken action to address these problems. Some local and indigenous peoples whose settlements are exposed to environmental damage have also taken action to prevent the threats, but yet the government and non-governmental organizations have not been able to work together and resolve the issue.
Formation of a special working group to protect Damavand necessary
Environmental activist Hossein Abiri Golpayegani told IRNA on Friday that given the experience of more than three decades of environmental activity among environmental activists, especially in the mountainous sector, public organizations, government agencies, and locals must form a special working group to protect and preserve Mount Damavand.
“This year, environmental activists are celebrating the Damavand National Day for the 16th year (of course, the ceremony is scheduled to be held online this year due to the coronavirus epidemic). During this time, they have gained good experience in defending Damavand’s environment.
Also, for more than 15 years, activists from Tehran and Mazandaran have been visiting the slopes of Damavand peak for several weeks to guard the Shaghayegh plain.
However, environmental activists have not yet been able to properly sensitize local people to the effects of the destruction of natural areas around their residence. Therefore, locals’ participation to defend Mount Damavand should be taken seriously,” he explained.
He went on to say that “Mount Damavand seems to be no priority for responsible bodies such as Department of Environment (DOE), and the ministry of cultural heritage.
Although the DOE registered the upper part of the peak as a natural monument a few years ago, it has not done any protection measures for this 2500-m height so far.
Also, since 2008, Damavand has been nationally registered as the first natural and historical monument by the cultural heritage ministry, but has not carried out any protection program as it should.”
To solve the problems of Mount Damavand, there is no choice but to gather governmental agencies, non-governmental organizations, and locals to cooperate; therefore, it is suggested that a working group be formed with the presence of the people and various organizations interested in preserving Damavand, responsible bodies such as the DOE, the Forests, Rangelands, and Watershed Management Organization, and the Ministry of Cultural Heritage, Tourism, and Handicrafts, he explained.
This working group can prepare instructions that must be implemented by all; for instance, related agencies will provide facilities, funds, and expertise to help identify problems in the region, and NGOs, as a line of communication between the government and locals, will hold training courses and promote culture among the people, he noted.
In this working group, locals will be tasked with protecting Damavand; once the protection of the environment becomes a culture for the people of the region, destruction will no longer continue but will be minimized, he further added.
The first program of Damavand National Day, which was held with the cooperation of the Tehran climb board, mountain climbing buffs, mountaineering groups, and the media from June 22 to 24, 2004, was accompanied by hundreds of climbers to symbolically collect the waste in Damavand mountainous area.
And each year, a special program has been conducted to mark this day, meanwhile, the officials are expected to seriously consider the protection of Damavand, so that it will no longer be subject to deliberate and unintentional destruction.
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